![]() 03/26/2015 at 16:14 • Filed to: Power For Pennies | ![]() | ![]() |
Everyone loves a nice push-rod V8 but what’s even better is an aluminum push-rod V8 with some boost. GM’s LS series of motors lends itself to all kinds of projects and turbocharging is no exception. Let’s build a monster for pennies.
Choose The Engine
There are a few options when choosing the engine but in our case we are going with the dirt cheap 5.3L that can be found in many GM Trucks and SUV’s. The iron block version can be found as low as $250 and aluminum block versions like the one we will use from the 04 Buick Rainier run around $500. Our $500 motor has 130k miles and comes with harness, PCM, exhaust manifolds with exhaust flanges, intake manifold, and throttle body and we will use all of these parts.
Engine Cost: $500
Upgrade The Engine
The LM4 5.3L can handle some boost in stock form but we will give it a few upgrades to make it last longer. Our first step will be upgrading the rod bolts. These can be found from ARP for about $90. We go back to ARP for some head studs coming in at $290 as well as some head gaskets from Chevy at $35. Next up, we will upgrade the camshaft. Staying budget conscious, we pick up a used LS6 cam for $50. The camshaft will be complemented by a set of $125 PAC springs to help the valve-train hold up. We will add another $100 for misc gaskets and sealants.
Engine Upgrades: $690
Prep The Engine
We need to fuel this monster and in order to do that we are going to upgrade the injectors. Some may call it an abomination but we are going to use Ford injectors from the SVO of the late 80s to early 90s. They are rated for 440cc and can be found on ebay for $175 for a new set of 8. We will also upgrade the spark plugs with NGK one-step colder units. A set of 8 comes in at $24. We will also need another MAP sensor to detect pressure so we pick up one from the turbocharged Pontiac Solstice that detects up to 2.5bar for $40.
Engine Prep: $239
Lubrication
The turbo will need lubrication from engine oil so we need to plumb it. We will start with the oil drain. We will need to drill and tap a hole for 10mm thread. Once the oil pan is cleaned and reinstalled on the car, we will screw in a ($10) 10mm to -10AN adapter fitting. We will need about 3 feet of -10AN line to run from the turbo oil drain to the pan which will run about $20. We will also need a $15 oil drain flange to connect the turbo to the drain line. On the feed side we will pickup a -4AN oil feed kit that includes a distribution block, lines, and fittings for $70. The distribution block mounts to the top of the oil pan where oil cooler lines would go.
Lubrication Cost: $115
Turbocharger And Piping
Our turbocharger of choice is going to be a Holset HX55. They can be found on various commercial diesel engines and can be picked up in good used condition for $250-300. We will need to pickup a T6 Flange and some 2.5in and 3in tubing. In our case we are going to leave the truck manifolds in place but just flip them forward and make a Y-pipe for them. The manifold will be started with cut off sections of exhaust and then made into a Y-pipe. At the end of the Y-pipe we will make a collector and weld the T6 flange. We will use V-band flanges and clamps on the Y-pipe to facilitate easier removal. The mild steel piping, flanges, and clamps come in around $180. To control boost we will pickup a used 46mm Precison wastegate for $230 and use a junkyard DSM BOV for $15. The DSM BOV will be modified by adding a pressure line from the underside that used pressure from the charge side to hold the diaphragm in place to make it safe up to 30 PSI. Since we are on a budget, we will build a manual screw type boost controller for $20. The intercooler will vary by application but a Chinese Bar and Plate unit with pipes and couplers can be picked up for about $250.
Turbocharger and Piping Cost: $945
Final Results
The project total comes in at a thrifty $2489 and with the parts above you can expect to make about 500 horsepower at 7 psi, 550 horsepower at 10 psi and whopping 610 horsepower along with 590 pound-feet of torque at 12 psi . You may be able to push it a little further and make more power but for longevity 12 psi is a good limit.
Other Considerations
This guide is focused on a bare bones budget build and there are many parts that can be upgraded based on personal preference and goals. There are also additional items that may be needed but will vary based on the vehicle used and these include tools, brackets, clamps, fuel pump, fuel lines, and tuning software. Many people will own some of these items due to previous projects but for others this can bring an additional cost. The remainder of the exhaust coming out of the turbo will also need to be modified or replaced to match up to the new setup.
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![]() 03/26/2015 at 16:22 |
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There are no LS engines in Ontario worth touching for less than $2000...
![]() 03/26/2015 at 16:26 |
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Step 7, cram it into the smallest car possible and hoon.
![]() 03/26/2015 at 16:30 |
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'murica
![]() 03/26/2015 at 16:31 |
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If you're not worried about snapping halfshafts, you're putting it in to big of a car.
![]() 03/26/2015 at 16:38 |
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I'll put it in a Triumph Spitfire!!!
![]() 03/26/2015 at 16:55 |
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well then just like beer you should drive to America to buy it for less than half price then haul it back with you!
![]() 03/26/2015 at 17:18 |
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Looking at car-part.com, I see an aluminum 5.3L with 81k miles for $588 USD in Fort-Erie, Ontario
![]() 03/26/2015 at 17:52 |
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What about cooling the air? They make intercoolers for a reason, there's even one in the lead picture.....
![]() 03/26/2015 at 18:26 |
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Whenever I try to pick up an engine like that there's always a catch, missing parts, spun bearings, wiped cam, ect. They make it look good until you actually go to buy it.
![]() 03/26/2015 at 21:23 |
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I will say wonderful things at your funeral!
![]() 03/26/2015 at 23:07 |
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he mentioned em
![]() 03/31/2015 at 11:20 |
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That swing axle will likely make things "interesting," to put it mildly
![]() 12/09/2015 at 11:29 |
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Go for a 4.8 Iron block for maximum thriftyness.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/…
EDIT: ...and I just realized this is from March...
![]() 12/09/2015 at 12:58 |
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C-C-C-COMBO BREAKER!
![]() 12/09/2015 at 16:52 |
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On an unrelated note, I just got an LS1 today:
![]() 12/10/2015 at 23:28 |
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You forgot to open up the ring gap, and crank up the boost some more.
These are amazing motors under boost. And another on is 500 when you over boost and throw to much nitrous at it..
![]() 12/11/2015 at 13:26 |
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They are a rare commodity here. If you can, sourcing one from the states isn’t a bad choice. Exchange rate blows now though. at least Aluminum doesn’t rust?
![]() 12/12/2015 at 18:06 |
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bearings are less than a hundred, the article is already replacing the cam, so you’re gonna be in there already nbd. I think the only parts that really need to be in good condition are the block, pistons and connecting rods. Oh and the header blocks and oil pan.
Oh.. and you’re gonna need to fabricate enough parts to make you wonder if you should’ve just bought a “bolt-on” for more.
But otherwise, yeah!
![]() 01/31/2016 at 23:52 |
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no ecu tune?
![]() 02/14/2016 at 20:26 |
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How do you have any idea this engine would make 610 horses?!
![]() 03/16/2016 at 12:09 |
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Not sure about putting the hot turbo right near the radiator and radiator hose.
![]() 03/16/2016 at 12:45 |
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He said “snapping half-shafts” not “snapping in half”.
![]() 03/16/2016 at 17:04 |
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My brother got a complete Iron block for $250, complete with accessories, wiring harness, and ECU.
![]() 03/16/2016 at 19:09 |
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Not an LS my friend.
![]() 03/16/2016 at 21:36 |
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No, but it is an LT. Practically the same thing, even has aluminum heads. Stronger block too.
![]() 04/17/2016 at 22:13 |
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For all of us Subaru owners that have had to do engine swaps: we hate your ability to buy high HP go fast bits for cheap. There. I said it for the good of all three of us. ;)
![]() 10/01/2016 at 21:22 |
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I have a 6.0 ls in my 63 spitfire! Turbo coming soon! Check it out on facebook! Austin Linder
![]() 10/01/2016 at 22:01 |
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good god almighty, may the lord have mercy!
A name on FB doesn’t seem to be specific enough to find your profile/page though. Might need something more specific.
If you’re interested I can direct you to a thread to get you approved for posting on Oppositelock, where you can post pictures here of your Spitfire :) or a write-up if you are even up for it.
![]() 10/18/2017 at 15:11 |
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Probably because other 5.3 builds running an HX55 can make upwards of 1000hp when bigger injectors, standalone tuning, and other mild top end mods are made.
![]() 08/27/2019 at 02:55 |
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Now, the question is whether this will last long. Can you daily this combo?